Posted by: Realist | February 4, 2008

Oz-Post

I finally got around to installing the Oz-Posts I bought a couple months ago for fence posts. I also purchased a demolition hammer and a t-post sleeve. I thought I could use the demolition hammer to drive the Oz-Posts, even though the Oz-Post company recommends a jack hammer.

The demolition hammer did absolutely nothing with the Oz-Posts. After driving it in a few inches, the Oz-Post simply stopped. I put all my weight on the demolition hammer for several minutes and the Oz-Post didn’t move at all. I figured I might have hit a large rock or block of ice or something.

So I went and got a maul. I did have to cut a short piece of 6×6 so that I had something to hit with the maul and not damage the Oz-Post. Surprisingly, a few hits with the maul sunk the Oz-Post a good inch or so. So much for the rock or ice theory.

It took about 30-50 hits with the maul to sink the Oz-Post most of the way in. For some reason, it just didn’t want to go in the final inch.  It’s possible the ground is frozen since we had some record cold weather the past couple weeks (real feel in the single digits).

Here’s a picture of the 6×6 Oz-Post sunk halfway in and the maul I was using.

Oz_Post and Maul

This Oz-Post will hold a 5 foot high 6×6 treated post on which will be hung a 6 foot long tubular gate. In retrospect, I think the 6×6 was overkill, since the gate only weighs about 40 pounds. Oh well, I already bought a pack of 6×6 Oz-Posts.

Here’s a picture of the 6×6 post in the Oz-Post.

Oz-Post with 6×6 Post

Here’s a close-up of the Oz-Post.

Oz-Post closeup

The Oz-Posts come with long bolts presumably to go through the holes in the Oz-Post. However, without a drill press, I would think it would be almost impossible to drill a hole that lines up with the hole on the other side. Moreover, how would one make the small adjustments to the post to make it plumb? I’m going to buy some 2.5 inch lag bolts and use them instead.

There’s also slight movement of the post inside the Oz-Post, so I’ll probably get some wood shims and both plumb and tighten up the post before I screw in the lag bolts.

So far, I think the Oz-Posts are a much better approach than digging a hole, inserting a post, then either filling with concrete or backfilling with dirt or gravel and manually pounding it in. I do wish the demolition hammer would have worked, but manually hammering it in with the maul actually wasn’t too bad. And since I only have to do about 12 Oz-Posts, that should be OK. I’ll just use the demolition hammer for its original purpose, which is to drive t-posts.

Here’s a picture of the demolition hammer with t-post sleeve.

Demolition Hammer

Unfortunately I didn’t have time to pound in the other Oz-post for the latch side of the gate, nor did I have all the gate hardware to finish the project.  But I started, which is all I wanted, since those Oz-Posts have been sitting on the deck for 2 months.

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Responses

  1. Realist, from where did you obtain the t-post sleeve? Have you successfully used it to drive posts with the demo hammer? Just curious how that went…

  2. Ttribble, I bought the t-post sleeve on ebay. It’s essentially a round pipe that the t-post fits in welded to the male piece that is inserted into the demo hammer. I did not have much success with it, though I didn’t spent much time troubleshooting the setup. I fell back to the manual post pounder, since I only had one post to pound in. I think the next time I have 20+ t-posts to pound in, I’ll spend the time to get the setup working.

  3. The small holes are for fasteners. The large hole is for liquid adhesive. http://www.ozcobuildingproducts.com/Video_Library.html


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